Ahmad Thulun, Masjid Kokoh Tanpa Jam’ah

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alhikmah.ac.id – Ahmad bin Thulun menyatakan,”Aku ingin mendirikan sebuah bangunan, dimana jika Mesir sampai terbakar maka ia tetap berdiri dan jika Mesir tenggelam ia juga tetap berdiri”. Ya, statemen Ahmad bin Thulun yang dicatat oleh Al Hafidz As Suyuthi dalam Husn Al Muhadarah fi Tarikh Mishr wa Al Qahirah ini bisa memprovokasi siapa saja yang membacanya untuk melihat seperti apa masjid yang dibangun oleh pendiri dinasti Thuluniyah ini. Saya sendiri bagian dari pihak yang merasa terpanggil untuk mengetahui “kehebatan” bangunan masjid ini.

Akhirnya, saya pun memutuskan untuk segera meluncur ke lokasi masjid ini, menuju Sayidah Aisyah dengan bus umum. Dari lokasi ini, jika memilih berjalan kaki, maka untuk sampai ke masjid Ahmad Thulun membutuhkan waktu sekitar 15 menit. Tidak terlalu susah menemukan posisi Ahmad bin Thulun, dengan menandai ciri khusus menaranya, yang berbeda dengan menara-menara masjid di Mesir yakni memiliki tangga di luar.

Dari luar, masjid Ahmad bin Thulun sudah menunjukkan kekokohannya, di mana bangunannya mirip dengan benteng pertahanan. Karena disamping berada di dataran labih tinggi, juga karena masjid ini dikelilingi oleh tembok tinggi. Imam As Suyuthi mencatatat bahwa masjid ini dibangun di atas gunung Yashkur, yang merupakan tempat shalat para tabi’in dan orang-orang shalih, juga disebutkan sebagai tempat nabi Musa Alaihissalam menerima wahyu secara langsung.

Pintu masuk menuju komplek ini pun tidak memiliki tanda khusus, hanya pagar setinggi dada yang berpintu yang dijaga oleh surthah alias polisi. Setelah melalui gerbang benteng baru bisa memasuki gerbang masjid. Di dalam masjid sendiri semakin terlihat kesan kekokohan bangunannya, dimana pilar-pilar bangunannya cukup besar, kira-kira perlu tiga orang dewasa untuk bisa merangkulnya.

 

Mesir Pilar Ahmad Thulun yang kokoh

Tidak hanya memiliki kesan kokoh namun juga memiliki kesan megah, karena luasnya bangunan yang jauh dibanding masjid Al Azhar. Menurut catatan sejarah Ahmad bin Thulun membangun masjid ini dengan mengeluarkan biaya 120 ribu dinar, yang kalau dirupiahkan mencapai hampir 200 milyar. Tidak hanya itu, Ahmad bin Thulun menginginkan bangunan masjid ke tiga di Mesir ini sempurna dari cacat, sampai ia menugaskan mata-mata untuk mengetahui komentar negatif dari jama’ah.

Tidak hanya memperhatikan fisik semata, Ahmad bin Thulun juga memperhatikan aktifitas di dalam masjid. Setelah pembangunan masjid selesai Qadhi Bakr bertugas menjadi imam, sedangkan jabatan khatib dipercayakan kepada Abu Ya’qub Al Balkhi. Adapun Imam Ar Rabi’ bin Sulaiman, murid Imam As Syafi’i dipercaya untuk menggelar majelis hadits. Masalah sosial pun diperhatikan, di masjid yang dibangun tahun 263 H ini disediakan berbagai macam minuman dan obat-obatan, serta dokter di tiap hari Jumat. Di masa selanjutnya pemakmuran dilakukan Sultan Lajin setelah selamat dari pembunuhan setelah bersembunyi di menara masjid ini, dimana ia bernadzar untuk memakmurkannya. Maka, penuhlah kajian ilmu tafsir, hadis, fiqih serta ilmu kedokteran di masjid ini. Di masa muta’akhirin tercatat bahwa Al Hafidz Ibnu Hajar juga mengajar hadits yang dilanjutkan oleh Al Hafidz As Suyuthi.

Namun, apa yang saya baca di Husn Al Muhadharah mengenai kemakmuran masjid ini berbalik 180 derajat dari apa yang saya lihat. Dimana hanya sebagian kecil saja dari area masjid yang digunakan untuk shalat, yakni yang dekat dengan mihrab. Sedangkan mihrabnya sendiri juga tidak dipakai, lantai kasarnya sendiri juga berdebu.

Yang saya lihat hanyalah seorang turis fotografer berlama-lama, sibuk membidik obyek-obyek yang ada di masjid. Ada pula seorang pemuda Mesir yang duduk membaca Al Qur`an agak lama, namun penjaga memberi kode agar ia segera meninggalkan lokasi.

Dengan pemuda yang bernama Hisyam ini sendiri saya sempat bertanya, apakah di masjid ini didirikan shalat berjama’ah. Ia pun menjawab,”Ya, namun yang melakukan 4 orang saja, yakni petugas yang berjaga di sini. Mungkin hanya 4 waktu saja, tanpa subuh”.

Setelah saya sendirian, karena baik fotografer maupun pemuda dari Giza itu pergi, saya pun bermaksud untuk naik ke menara masjid yang fotonya banyak beredar di internet ini, namun petugas menyampaikan bahwa saat ini menara ditutup,”Pekan depan Anda ke sini, menara akan dibuka”.

Dengan perasaan kecewa, saya pun akhirnya memutuskan untuk mengakhiri kunjungan ini dan singgah untuk melaksanakan shalat di masjid lain yang letaknya tidak jauh dengan masjid ini. Namun setelah shalat saya memutuskan untuk kembali lagi, karena saya melihat sejumlah turis kulit putih naik ke menara. Tapi ketika sampai di pintu gerbang, petugas penjaga mencegah,”Tidak, waktu kunjungan telah habis”.

Kunjungan akhirnya benar-benar saya akhiri, tidak hanya kecewa tapi juga bertanya-tanya. Kenapa masjid megah ini tidak lagi dibuka untuk umum sebagai masjid pada umumnya? Apa pertimbangannya? Tidakkah ada yang berinisiatif untuk memakmurkan masjid ini kembali?

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